Global-Scene -
Southern Spain:
A journey through time

Michael Cardarelli

When visiting Southern Spain you certainly feel a world away, but this EU nation has managed to embrace the 21st century without losing its old-world allure. There are numerous non-stop flights daily to Madrid, and this central location leaves you poised for a tour through the country's most diverse and beautiful landscape.

A trip to Spain would not be complete without taking advantage of the dozens of Paradors - restored ancient fortresses, castles, and former residences of the Spanish matriarch that have been converted to four-star hotels. Prices range from $70-$200, depending on the location and season, and advance reservations are essential. www.parador.es

Once in Madrid, take in its culture and charm. Art fans will appreciate the Prado Museum with its master works by Goya, Velazquez, and El Greco. Food lovers can't go wrong with the multitude of Tapas bars or Café Botin, the world's oldest restaurant (according to Guinness), both located near Plaza Mayor. The ultimate treat, however, is Restaurante Casa Benigna, located a few minutes north of city center on Calle Benigno Soto n.9. This culinary experience is known as the finest in all of Spain, with only six tables and frequent patrons such as the King and Queen. There are no signs marking this gem… you simply must knock on the ancient wooden door; the owner is in the kitchen, his son serves, and his mother is the charming hostess. Reservations are essential: 34-91-413-3356. The nightlife starts around 9 p.m. at the Tapas bars and doesn't slow until dawn. The best summertime club is outdoors at the old train station at Plaza Atocha. Go from midnight until 4 a.m., then move on to the nightclubs- Cool and Capital are the best, and are just north of Puerta del Sol. *Note that many Madrid offices, restaurants, and businesses are closed in August as the entire city packs up and heads south for a month-long holiday… the Spanish do know how to live.) Pic Puerta del Sol.

As you depart Madrid for the south, appreciate the modern highway systems (and lack of speed enforcement). Two hours to the south is Jaén, a small city centered around the Castillo de Santa Catalina, a Moorish castle dating back 1,000 years. This city's parador is one of the best, located amidst the castle ruins and complete with authentic suits of armor, canopied beds, and balconies overlooking the Sierra de Jabalcuz mountains and endless olive groves. Continuing west to Córdoba, the ancient Mezquita is well worth seeing. This 1200 year-old mosque houses 850 marble and onyx columns and is perfectly preserved today. Pic Mezquita

Seville is home to the Maestranza, one of the greatest bullrings in Spain. The season begins in April with a festival and daily fights, and continues through late October. 34-95-422-4577. Pic Maestranza. Flemenco also has roots here, and some of the finest performance clubs in Spain are located downtown. Purists believe Los Gallos to be the best, and the midnight performance is always the most powerful. Plaza de Sta. Cruz. 34-95-421-6981. Pic Plaza de Espana.

South of Seville on the Mediterranean Sea is Costa del Sol, a name that comes from the 340 sunny days each year. Here you will find the touristy and ostentatious Puerto Banús, home to countless Arab oil barons, yachts, and boutiques. Closer to Marbella, the two famed resorts Puente Romano and Marbella Club offer a relaxing alternative to the overcrowded town with beautiful beaches and manicured gardens.

The drive from Marbella to Granada winds through some of the most beautiful countryside in Europe. Endless olive groves, vineyards, and ancient towns dot the rolling landscape. In the heart of this Andalusian countryside, nine miles west of Loja, is the Moorish estate La Bobadilla. Saddle barns complete with riding gear and renowned Andalusian horses are at your disposal, as are the 1,000 acres of beautiful grounds. www.la-bobadilla.com.